Notes from two 'intrepid' Africa Travellers

Phil & Penny Trevethick
Lincolnshire UK

As keen Africa travellers we have been fortunate enough to visit many of the classic safari destinations: Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Luangwa Valley, Okavango Delta and Victoria Falls. There is no doubt that these places are spectacular but, as a result of having to join a group, we have had to travel and view game at someone else's speed, and there have been numerous occasions when we wanted to stay watching an animal or a scene for much longer than the schedule would allow.

Now we have found the perfect combination - Kruger National Park. Here, you can drive your own (hire-)car, stay in comfortable and affordable accommodation within the Park (air-conditioned, round thatched cottages with en-suites) and travel around at your own pace.

Regarding food, the lodge restaurants provide superb meals and some even provide 'take-aways' for you to eat in your own cottage. For those wanting to light a barbeque (commonly known locally as a 'braai'), provisions can be purchased from the stores in each camp where well-stocked supermarkets provide everything you need. The South African National Parks infrastructure of well-signposted gravel and tarred roads, and the availability of guidance literature with maps and useful information, ensure that the independent traveller, whilst feeling intrepid, is pretty safe at all times.

Having said that, you are certainly in Big game country and, because many animals have become accustomed to vehicles being around, it is often possible to get very close to see and observe them without disturbing. In our opinion the rivers which traverse the reserve en route to the Mozambique coast provide some of the most magnificent scenes. There is nothing like sitting for a length of time at a small water-hole or on a bridge over a stream waiting to see what comes by.

We have made two trips in the last two years, arranged by Chris at Safari Pride and his enthusiasm and extensive knowledge of the area have enabled us to get the very best out of our visits there. We are more than happy to endorse his professionalism, helpfulness and attention to detail and look forward to further trips.

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There follows an outline of a recent trip under-taken in June and July 2005 when we decided to spend a full five weeks in the reserve.

"..After a flight from our local airport to Amsterdam we took the 10-hour long daytime flight from there to Johannesburg arriving around 8pm that same evening. A good point to mention about southern Africa is that there is little or no jet-lag involved getting there and although the flight can be a little tedious your body stays mostly 'in tact'. We over-nighted at the very comfortable airport hotel, a 100-yards walk from the arrivals lounge. The following morning we flew to Kruger Mpumalanga International (KMIA), a beautiful new airport, with a very beautiful thatched roof where we picked up our pre-arranged 4x4-style hire vehicle. All transactions went smoothly and efficiently. It's fairly advisable to book a vehicle with air- conditioning.

The drive to Crocodile Bridge gate at the southern end of the Park took about an hour and a half and was very straightforward being that they drive like we Brits on the left. The route is a very good main highway passing through attractive scenery of banana and orange plantations (and a small toll). It is important to take some cash for such instances, as there are also porters to tip at the airport and the hotel, and only cash is accepted at the petrol stations within the Park.

We arrived at the Kruger gate in the early afternoon and were officially checked in after producing passports and 'Wild Card' (a conservation fee which we paid for in advance, but which is also purchasable at the entrance gate; credit card would be advisable). After buying a few provisions, we drove to our first camp, Lower Sabie, and arrived well before the camp gates closed at 5.30p.m. Driving around after sunset is not allowed for obvious reasons unless you join a professional drive with a ranger and tracker (bookable at some camps).

Our bungalow was comfortable, air-conditioned and with an en-suite bathroom, outside fridge and food cupboard, and well situated next to the river. If staying for more than a couple of nights, it would be quite advisable to try and book a bungalow with its own kitchenette, although there are several communal kitchens. Otherwise, you need to buy disposable plates and cutlery in the camp shop. Alternatively you can eat and drink in the camp restaurant or café.

A daily routine soon evolved: up and away early for a game drive as soon as the camp gates were opened, taking drinks and snacks, back mid- to late morning for brunch, then out again mid-afternoon. Drives often lasted longer than anticipated and depended entirely on the wildlife we encountered. If you want to be out for a whole day, you can choose to head for another rest-camp, have lunch there and be back before the gates close. The maximum speed allowed inside the park is only 50km/hour so be sure to plan realistic and achievable routes for yourself

We stayed at three further camps, each having its own individual feel and, indeed, its own speciality in regard to wildlife: Satara (located in the centre of the Park one of the best spots in the world for viewing lion, leopard and cheetah, because of the lush grazing which attracts many antelopes), Letaba (situated on a sweeping bend of the Letaba River, midway between the southern and northern boundaries of the Park . the name means "river of sand", and the sandy riverbed is an excellent location for game viewing, particularly elephant, which thrive in the area), and Olifants (situated on rocky cliffs overlooking the Olifants River and environs, affording wonderful sweeping views down into the riverine vegetation below, particulary at sunset and dawn). Those camps situated on a river are particularly attractive, as it's quite possible to spend half a day game viewing without even having to drive from the camp!

The last night was spent outside the park boundary at a tented camp near Orpen gate, in preparation for the 1½hour drive to Hoedspruit airport, again a straightforward major route. Last time, our documents were checked at the gate, but this time we were waved straight through. Look closely for the sign to the airport - it isn't easily visible! We left the vehicle at the airport and were met by a representative of the company who completed the paperwork. Check-in took five minutes, then on to Johannesburg and home."

All flights, vehicle hire and accommodation for five weeks cost under £5,500 for two people and travel was at the best game-viewing time being the southern African winter.

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